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Reggie,
Yes, I accidentally stumbled onto
your
site today.
I have attached (3) photos of my
house
which is located in Asheboro, North Carolina, which is in the center of
the state.
My house was designed and built in
1934
by the original owner. I'm the second.
As you can tell from the photos,
the
stucco is cracking and sliding off the top of my chimney.
The outer coating thicknesses
range
from 1/4" to 1/2".
The metal cap has rusted through,
which
has allowed water to come in and probably penetrate the coating.
Repeated freezing and thawing
cycles
over 60+ years has probably separated the coating.
Pieces have been falling off for
about
two years and it's getting worse.
I think the only way to fix this
is
to completely remove the coating and start over.
My guess is to hammer off the
remaining
coating, secure metal lath to the structure and re-stucco, replace the
metal cap.
The problem is trying to find
someone
local to fix it.
It's pretty high up.
The answer I've been getting is to
cover
the whole top with something else.
The chimney is so much a part of
the
house and the overall look of the house. I don't want to change
anything,
except the metal cap.
We've been in the house for 9 years and
never
used the fireplace. However, we really want to.
The original owners placed a steel
plate
over the opening. They didn't use it either.
Do you have any suggestions or
know
anyone in my area that could help?
It's hard to find "stucco repair"
listed
in the phonebook.
We always re-do the caps on houses that
we do
stucco additions on
You may be able to do it yourself, but you
are
probably better off not to.
The stucco can be recoated using an acrylic
additive
in the mortar. First
the loose areas need to be chipped to
expose
the bare mortar,
including areas where the cap was re-coated
and
the new mortar failed.
You can apply new mortar in one of two
methods.
One using a bonding coat first, then a
finish
coat. Or just a finish coat.
You can find someone with basic masory
skills
to do this for you.
It is critical acrylic is used in the
mortar(and
not painted on first)
or the recoat will fail.
Loose areas are chipped off and surface dirt and dust
cleaned off.
Duct tape around bottom of cap to keep mortar
off brick. Roof is covered real good with tarpaper and tape
This mortar will not come off the roof. Note the flex
con bucket
This is mixed half and half with water, then mixed into
the mortar. We didn't use a bonding coat here.
Mortar is white portland and sand colored to match
the addition.
Mortar is poured on top of cap. Here, Mynor scoops off some
mortar with a putty knife to fill in holes and chipped areas.
Mortar
is spread out and troweled after it starts to set.
Later duct tape is peeled off.
The middle needs to be higher than the outside for water
drainage.
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